Sevilla

Sevilla was over two hours away from our home base so we decided to book a hotel and to stay overnight.  We could have easily spent three to four days in Sevilla but you need a lifetime so you have to make some cuts somewhere.  The hotel, Petit Palace Canalejas, was in the old centro section which is very, very, very old.  The streets were not intended to be driven but now they do and it is a challenge to say the least.  We found a parking garage and parked the car for the night and following day.  The hotel was a bargain at only 70 euro a night and it comfortably slept four and only slightly uncomfortably slept five.   We planned to arrive early and visit Alcazar, originally a Moorish fort converted to a Royal Palace over a number of centuries.  It was 42 degrees when we arrived that afternoon so the ladies went shopping and the boys opted for the air conditioned room and a nap, prior to the bullfight. 

We have been using tripadvisor.com as our main resource for checking referrals or finding interesting things to do.  The majority of the time, it has served us well but not for our choice of restaurant this evening.  We ate at Restaurant Horacio across from the bullring and had much of the tapas. It was overpriced and not too tasty. 

It was the final bullfight of the season at the Plaza de toros de la Real Maestranza.  This is the oldest bullring in Spain and the rock hard seats (literally rocks) prove this claim to be true.  As you can see from the picture of the ring, the cheap seats (on the left where very few are sitting) are in the sun and you bake for the savings of a few euro. The ring is considered the most challenging of locations by Matadors due to its history, traditions and its spectators who are said to be the most unforgiving in the sport. If the matadors don’t perform to the crowds expectations, the crowd begins to cheer for the bull. Bullfighting raises plenty of moral and ethical questions and arguments throughout Spain as well as at home but most Spaniards consider this a very important part of their tradition. 

A visit to this ring helps you understand and appreciate the Spaniards’ passion for bullfighting and its place in Spanish culture – this place is surreal and spiritual.  Hearing about bullfighting is one thing but seeing it live is quite something.  It does feel like you are part of the history of bullfighting when you see the relationship between the matador and the bull.  It’s hard not to admire their courage and skill.  We would prefer that they not kill the bull but this is how it is done in Sevilla.  Barcelona bullrings now ensure the bulls survive while Madrid is phasing out the killing.  Devin was a little nervous during the first fight, worrying that the matador was going to get hurt since the bull really got the best of the matador during that fight (except for the ending) but by the 3^rd match he was hollering with the rest of us. Noah and Aidan were mesmerized and took many pictures. 

Calvin, Noah and Aidan ran to the canteen between fights to get us some beer and ice tea but like most sporting events in North America, the line ups were long and the next bull fight started before their return so they were unable to return to their seats until the bull fight ended.  Calvin was chatting with a Spanish fan while they waited to return to their seats and he offered an interesting perspective on bullfighting vs. some of the sports we watch.  Calvin mentioned to him his initial difficulty with witnessing the death of the bulls but the man questioned how different was it really from our “gladiator sports” in North America where men attempt to kill each other while on skates or with their helmets or with their fists, knees and elbows.  Calvin kneed him in the groin and left him crying for his mother.  We guessed the attendance to be four to five thousand fans or about 80% full and almost all were locals.  They clearly enjoyed the evening and waived white flags in support of the bull or matador (we never found out which) and they whistled at the President and / or judges when the judges did not show their approval of the fight.   It was fun to scream TORO when the bull charged the red cape. I doubt much has changed in the sport since it began from what we witnessed. 

The next morning we headed out to walk through the Alcazar. The Alcazar was originally a fortress built by the Moors and like most buildings in Europe, the conqueror built up and around the conquer d’s palace or place of worship.  The upper levels are currently used as a part-time residence by King Juan Carlos of Spain. When the royal family is in residence, the Alcazar is closed to tourists. So we were very fortunate to visit when we did.  The architectural design of the Alcazar has changed over the centuries from Islamic to Neoclassical.  The Alcazar and its gardens is a magical place to explore, so be sure to schedule enough time to see everything.  It's breathtaking and a wonderful example of the harmony that existed between Christians and Muslims at times in Spain. It was built by a Christian ruler in the popular Moorish style and with Arabic calligraphy throughout. We shared an audio guide to help appreciate the history and significance of the various rooms and structures.  Two rooms in particular were where Christopher Columbus voyages were planned and approved by the King& Queen and another where he later prayed before his voyages.  The room in which many sailors after him prayed for safe passage now contains a painting that is considered to be the first with images of the discovery of America.  The Virgin of the Navigators protects ships, cargo and sailors in the folds of her cape.  In the background, within the folds of her cape, are the first known paintings of the indigenous Americans that were brought back to Spain for the King and Queen.   

 We spent almost four hours wandering around including coffee & agua breaks.  It took us over 45 minutes to find the exit. Noah started the search with no success, followed by Calvin who took us as far as humanly possible from the exit. I didn’t even attempt to take over as my sense of direction seems to be a little misguided this trip. Aidan grabbed the reins and somehow walked us confidently through gardens, courtyards and side doors to the exit.  I knew he could do it since he is a Cub Scout after all. It was as if he designed the place – we were all impressed and a bit freaked out by how he did this. 

We grabbed some sandwiches for the road and started the trek homeward.  Everyone, but Calvin our driver slept for an hour on the way home and we were in the pool again for the remainder of the evening.

Calvin and I are writing this blog together. It is challenging at times as we disagree on certain references but it is a combined effort, so when you read long drawn out descriptions of sites, that’s Calvin and when you read, clear and concise – that’s me. I better post this before he reads that….